Moordown Contractors Appointed as service agents for Calorex

Posted on 10/09/09, filed under News | No Comments

Moordown Contractors Ltd Poolpartmarts parent company has been appointed as
service agents for the Calorex Heat pump range. Dealing with warranty and
service repairs to the entire calorex range on their behalf in the south coast
area where we are based. A full range of repairs and servicing will be carried
out by our fully qualified engineers. We also offer a similar service for any
make of heat pump or gas boiler systems including the installation of new equipment.
See below a typical repair being carried out by our engineers.

The job is to replace the Heat Exchanger in a calorex Heat pump

Covers are removed to gain access to the unit

The Refrigerant gas is then reclaimed from the heat pump and the pool water
side is drained down and disconnected

The heat exchanger is then removed and the new one re-fitted

The Refrigerant circuit is the Pressure tested for leaks using nitrogen then
vacuumed out using a suitable vacuum pump and finally recharged with the correct
407c gas charge before being test run and fully checked

The finished repaired unit is then put back into service

First Poolpartmart own brand product

Posted on 17/05/09, filed under News | No Comments

Poolpartmart are pleased to announce their first own brand product

We have introduced a new Chlorine/bromine erosion feeder

which will become our first own brand product this very

competitively priced feeder at under £60-00 will take

small or large chlorine tablets or bromine tablets and

feed a maximum of 400 grams in 24 hrs it is an inline

unit and suitable for most domestic pools and spas.

This is the first of the poolpartmart on brand range

which will have further products added soon.

New Cleaning Products At Poolpartmart

Posted on 17/05/09, filed under News | No Comments

Poolpartmart are now stocking a new Product range consisting of Net Skim,Pool Gom and water Lily

Net skim

Net skim is a box of 12 fine mesh nets that go inside a skimmer basket and will filter out very fine material before it gets to the pump and filter these are excellent in pools that have a lot of pine needles or small debris from trees and also for Animal pools such as dog and horse hydrotherapy pools where hair or fur is a problem. They are designed to be disposable after use

Pool Gom

Pool Gom is a magic eraser for water lines and marks to liner and tiled pools work far better than any scum line cleaner on the market and can be used on marks under the water as well  we ran a small trial on this product with both scum line cleaning and removal of some rust marks see below what our customers said

Jenny from Norwich :-Writes

“Dear Mark and Christine

The pads worked like magic on the iron residue, the only problem was that the first one disintegrated pretty quickly , I was much gentler with the second one but it still had only a small area of coverage. i think these would be very good for the scum band at the watermark.”

John From Benfleet;-Writes

“I have to say that I was singularly unimpressed with the “Eraser” but as the exposed area of the liner was quite soiled, I thought it can’t look any worse. It was brilliant! I just managed to finish of my 32×12 pool before it totally disintegrated, but 30 minutes to clean of 2 years of grime, please could you send me some more, 3 of my pals have pools and I am sure must suffer the same problem.”

Water Lilly

Selective absorbent of the fat residues for spas and swimming pools Fat substances and wastes (oils and sun lotions, pollution) found on the surface of the water of the spas, hot tubs and swimming pools are responsible for the scum line more or less important at the level of the watermark and of a visible black line inside the skimmers where, because of circulation of water, they tend to concentrate . Settled at the surface of water in the skimmer, WATER LILY® absorbs and retains the fat substances brought back by the water circulation. Within a period of time, the fibrous material of WATER LILY® is colored of a more or less sunk brown, which testifies of the absorption of the involved pollutants. WATER LILY® is a Disposable product which must be changed every month or more frequently if necessary according to the bathing frequency .

Woman Drives Car Into Swimming pool

Posted on 12/05/09, filed under News | No Comments

Reported recently in the Daily mail

“Woman driver ‘parks’ her car in a California

swimming pool and walks away uninjured”

By Daily Mail Reporter

Last updated at 7:28 PM on 04th May 2009

A woman accidentally drove her car out through a barrier, down a 15-foot embankment, and into an unoccupied swimming

pool – but escaped injury.

The woman, whose name has not been released, crashed her BMW nose-first into a pool side sun deck at Garden Fitness in

Monterey, northern California.

The vehicle flipped over on impact, falling into the pool.

She was in her BMW, getting ready to leave, and near as we can figure out, she had the car in drive and accidentally hit the

accelerator,’ said Monterey Fire Captain Paul Goodwin.

‘She went through the fence, landed on the side of the pool and flipped upside down.

‘She was able to self-extricate from the car, and seemed to be all right, but we sent her to the hospital to get checked out.’

Matt Lamarque, owner of Garden Fitness, said the pool was unoccupied at the time of the incident, but another member was

in the jacuzzi at the time.

‘I was inside and somebody came running over to me and said one of our members had gone into the pool with her car,’

Lamarque said.

‘Another member already had helped her out, so we stayed with her until the paramedics got here.

‘She seemed to be OK – just a little bit shaken up. She’s lucky. If she had been knocked unconscious, she might have

drowned.’

The sundeck was unoccupied on the cool, overcast afternoon

Heat Pump Installation

Posted on 05/05/09, filed under Installation Info | No Comments

Pool-Part-Mart engineers installing a new Heatperfector heat pump

To show how easy it is to install your own heat pump here how we do it

Firstly you will need to alter the pool pipe work to plumb in the new heat pump .The one we are installing is a Heatperfector 32kw so the pipe work is 2” to the unit but can be reduced down to 1 ½ “ if required.

The pipe work is cut and a bypass arrangement installed using three 2” ball valves

The pipes are extended through the wall ready for connection to the heat pump

The heat pump is unpacked and stood in position it’s important the all manufactures clearances around the unit are correct to ensure maximum performance from the heat pump and the pipes are then connected to the heat pump

The heat pump is then connected to a suitable sized electrical supply ensuring the correct size cable is used this unit needs a 32amp supply and has been wired up using a 6mm armoured cable from a suitable isolator

The heat pump can then be set to work switch on the pump with the bypass valve closed and the two valves to the heat pump open check for leaks. Switch on the power to the heat pump and set up the controls to the manufactures instructions. Most heat pumps have delay timers so it may not come on instantly.

Most heat pumps in the UK only work to full capacity with an outdoor air temperature of above 16c so be patient with heat up times and always use a cover on the pool to assist the heat pump to do its job clean the heat pump coils at the start of the season using a coil cleaner and keep the area around it clear of plants etc.

Heat Pump Q&A

Posted on 01/05/09, filed under Questions & Answers | No Comments

Q -Does my heat pump need servicing?

A – There are very little items that need any regular serving on most heat pumps the only things that you should do to keep it performing well is to ensure the space around it is kept clean and clear particularly of any plants and to ensure best performance cleaning the coil with a propriety coil cleaner at the beginning of the season is always a good idea

 

Q – My heat pump freezes up what can I do about it?

A- There are several possible causes for this to happen if it does it early or late in the season only the most likely cause is that the on coil temperature or outside air temperature is to low most UK heat pumps require a 16deg C or above on coil temperature to work at there best low outdoor temperature can cause freezing. If it happens continuously throughout the season there are to further possibilities either the air around the unit is being recycled heat pumps need good free air movement around them so that the discharged cold air is not drawn back into the unit so keep plants cut back and the area clear of obstructions. The coil could be blocked this can be simply cleaned using a proprietary coil cleaner. If none of these are true your unit may have an internal fault normally a lack of refrigerant gas which you will need to get an engineer to check for you.

 

Q – How do I decide which heat pump I need for my pool?

A – There are so many different ones on the market now the main thing is to ensure that you get a titanium heat exchanger and that the equipment used to produce the unit are of a good quality when comparing units ensure that they are sized based on a 16deg C or lower external air temperature there are some on the market that quote capacity using a 25deg C external temperature which is no use in the UK most heat pumps are sized based on the volume of the pool and the sales literature will tell you which unit is suitable for you size of pool.

 

Q – What is COP

A – The COP or coefficient of performance of a heat pump tell you how effect it is most UK available unit are 5:1 based on a outside air temperature of 16deg C or higher this will drop significantly with lower temperatures basically it means when you put in 1kw of electricity you get 5kw of heat out the end into the pool the higher the COP the better the heat pump.

Want to know more contact us at Sales@poolpartmart.co.uk

 

Opening your pool for summer

Posted on 18/04/09, filed under General Information | No Comments

 

When warm weather is approaching, it’s time to think about opening your swimming pool for the season. These steps should help you get your swim pool open the right way for the pool season.

The first thing you must do is remove the cover. If there are leaves or other debris on the cover, use your leaf net to remove them.

After removing the cover, be sure to clean it, let it dry, and store for the season.

You may need to add water, bringing the level up to its normal operating level.

Remove any freeze plugs and other items installed to protect against freezing.

If you drained down your plant for winter re-fit drain plugs and re-assemble pipe work

Now, start your filter system up, being sure to prime the pump before starting the motor. Be sure to purge all the air from the plumbing and equipment. Warning: Air will be compressed during this procedure. Be sure to release any built up pressure before opening your filter, pump, or chemical feeder.

Check for any leaks.

Assess the pool itself. Hopefully, you had a cover on and the water is as clear and blue as when you closed it. If not, you will want to remove any large debris with your leaf net, leaf rake, or leaf eater.

Any dirt, sand, algae, or other small debris should be vacuumed to waste.

After cleaning the pool, it’s time to check the water chemistry.

If your pool is green you will need to first add shock and algcide you need a level

of more than 10PPM

Adding chlorine and other chemicals in certain circumstances can damage and/or stain your pool surface.So take care how much you add

Allow the water to circulate at least 8-12 hours, so that the water that was added has time to mix with the water in the pool.

After that time, test it thoroughly, then add the necessary chemicals in the proper sequence to balance the water chemistry. Test for pH, Total Alkalinity, Calcium Hardness, As well as chlorine levels. Be sure to follow the procedure on the chemical containers to avoid damage to your pool’s surface.

Install handrails, ladders, etc. being sure to inspect them for wear and damage.

Inspect the diving board. It should be free of stress cracks and the surface should have a Non-skid surface. If the board has any stress cracks, it should be replaced.

Tile lines can be cleaned with pool tile cleaner. Do not use any household cleaners (especially abrasives) to clean the tile. You do not want to swim in these chemicals.

Heaters will need to be serviced if you have a gas fired heater you will need to get a Gas safe registerd enginner with an HWB1 qualification to do this

HeatPumps nedd attantion too clean around them and make sure there are no plants growing near them that may affect the proformance for optomum proformance clean coils with a coil cleaner

 

Pool-Part-Mart Change filters at local Leisure Centre

Posted on 21/02/09, filed under Work Carried Out | No Comments

Poolpartmart Engineers have recently carried out the installation of two new Lacron deep bed filter units at the Littledown centre in Bournemouth the units were replacements for the existing Astral deep bed filters serving the two commercial spas at leisure centre.The Lacron filters were filled with the new Eco glass media in place of standard Filter sand 

   

         

The old sand is removed from the filters Here’s Chris working at the sharp end instead of answering the phone . The old filters were then removed and the new Lacron units put into place

 

  

 The pipework was then altered to suit the new filters 

 

The new units are then filled with the new Eco glass media

   

                    

              The finished job is tested and set to work

  �

Planning Problems

Posted on 23/11/08, filed under News | No Comments

Even the best of us can have planning problems as reported recently in the daily mail Tony Blair is having problems with planning for his new SwimSpa see exert for Daily Mail Below

(more…)

Winterising your pool

Posted on 22/10/08, filed under General Information | No Comments

There are two schools of thought on winterising outdoor pools in the UK. We have outlined below both methods the first few steps are the same for which ever method you may wish to choose.

The Solar Cover

Remove your cover wash and clean down allow to dry then roll up onto the roller cover and store for the winter

The Water

Ensure the PH value is between 7.2 & 7.6 adjust using dry acid or soda ash as required. Shock dose your water with chlorine to give a level of 6 – 10 ppm & add a winterising fluid or long life algicide run the pump for 6-8 hours to ensure the chlorine is well mixed . If using chlorine granules ensure none are left settled on the bottom as they can bleach a pool liner over the winter. To protect the structure from the effects of ice half fill some empty chlorine containers and float them on the pool water so they are half submersed.

The Equipment

There are two options here either

Drain the pool water level to about 6 inchs below the level of the skimmers this is to allow for rain water over the winter months then disconnect your pump from the electrical supply,remove the drain plugs from the pump and the filter units release the unions on the multiport valve and ensure all items are drained,take care to drain heaters,solar panels and heatpumps. With gas boilers ensure the pilot is extingushed and the gas turned off. With heatpumps if they have a fan on the top it’s a good idea to cover them to stop debris entering them over the winter.

Or

Have your system fitted with a frost Stat so that if the temperature drops below freezing your pump will switch on automaticaly. Reset your pump time clock to bring your pump on for 1-2 hours each day. Open bypass valves on heatpumps and solar systems and drain down these items as above.

Competition heatpump covers

The Winter Cover

Fit your winter debris cover on to your pool to keep out leaves etc. Always tension the cover keeping it out of the water if possible.

How to Change the Filter Sand.

Posted on 17/04/08, filed under Installation Info | No Comments

How to Change the Filter Sand step by step.

Having received the correct amount of filter media, the following procedure should be followed:-

• 1. Ensure the pool water is in good condition and at the right level. Make sure the skimmer and pump baskets are free from debris. Backwash the filter for 3 minutes then rinse for 20 seconds – Repeat procedure to so that the old media is as clean as possible, before you remove it.
• 2. Set EVERY valve to the closed position. Isolate from the mains supply, the circulation pump and all other on line electrical/gas appliances.
• 3. Remove filter drain plug cap, which is just above the filter base level. NOTE: Once the drain plug cap is removed, the water contained in the filter will be released. Ensure that any of the water will not damage surrounding equipment or decor. Use suitable drainage trays or hoses as required.
• 4. For filters fitted with the multiport valve at the side (side mount) remove the top lid, this will speed up the out flowing water from the drain plug.
• 5. Threaded lids can sometimes be difficult to unscrew. We suggest that you use a purpose made ‘Lacron’ lid tool (please email us if you would like to purchase one). Alternatively, it is possible to make your own tool from two 750mm lengths of 50 x 50 timber, each drilled with a 10mm diameter hole, 70mm from the end. Loosely join the two timber pieces using a 10mm nut and bolt to form an unequal cross. This can then be fitted over the filter lid and used to push against the fins to give far greater leverage. Do not hammer the lid, this will cause damage.
• 6. Having removed the lid of your filter, you will need to lift off the air bleed cap and rose distributor then remove distributor pipework. This can be disconnected by unscrewing the stainless steel cross head screw, which is situated inside the filter at 45° on the edge of the top bulkhead. Once the screw is removed the header pipe can be eased out of the bulkhead and carefully slipped off of the black – airbleed tube.
• 7. For filters fitted with a multiport valve at the top, the valve must be removed to gain access to the interior of the filter. Top mount filters have a central collector pipe unlike the side mount type.
• 8. Provided the media is free running a commercial type wet and dry vacuum cleaner can be used to suck out the old media. NOTE: You may need to use water from a hose pipe to help fluidise the media when vacuuming. Alternatively, it may be more appropriate to simply bail out the media using a plastic bowl approximately of 150mm diameter or smaller.
• 9. Whatever method of media removal chosen, particular care should be taken as you excavate around the lower underdrain pipework. This pipework can become brittle during years of service and any damage that may occur could result in sand being passed back to the pool once the filter is re-commissioned. It may help to wash around the underdrain pipework with a garden hose to assist with removing ALL the old media.
• 10. Once the filter is completely empty of old media, it is advisable to fill the filter with water by about one third of the tank depth. This water will break the fall of the fresh media, reducing its impact on the underdrain pipework. Cover the end of the airbleed tube with adhesive tape or similar to prevent sand blocking the pipe bore.
• 11. Make sure that the NEW fresh media is dry and free running. Open the sacks carefully to avoid wastage and to assist in making the flow more controllable. Pour the media in slowly, and continue until half of the required amount is in place. At which point you should push the media around inside the filter making the surface roughly level.
• 12. Pour the remainder of the media in, but keep a careful check on the media height level. On most residential filters, the correct height is about 30 -50mm above the centre of the filter. This level may be higher on commercial filters – refer to filter technical specifications. NEVER FILL THE FILTER COMPLETELY WITH MEDIA!
• 13. Once the correct amount of media is in the filter, again push the surface layer around until roughly level. Then clean the lid area, paying particular attention to the threads which must be completely free of any media or dirt etc.
• 14. Remove the tape from the airbleed tube and clean and refit the distributor pipework, rose and airbleed cap. Thoroughly clean the lid and ‘o’ ring. Check to ensure that all dirt and grit is removed by screwing the lid into the filter. If dirt is still present you will hear a grating sound.Once you are sure that the lid and threads are totally clean you can then apply a liberal amount of Vaseline to the lid threads and ‘o’ ring. Then refit the lid hand tight only!
• 15. Open appropriate valves and reset to BACKWASH. Re-activate the main circulating pump. BACKWASH for at least 3 minutes. You will notice that the backwash water contains a colour stain – this is normal but must be completely clear before filtering can start. Stop the system then rinse for 1 minute. Stop the system and manually re-tighten the lid by another one-third turn. Then do a further backwash and rinse until the out flowing water is completely clean.
• 16. Re-set the valve to filter position, switch the pump on and observe the water flowing back to the pool, which should be noticeably, more vigorous. Once you are satisfied that the filter is running correctly you should re-set all other on line equipment, re-setting or adjusting timers etc.

Kirsty Edwards (Sales Manager)

Step by Step How to Fit a Liner 2.

Posted on 17/04/08, filed under Installation Info | No Comments

The following steps are continuing from my first
blog…. how to fit a liner.

• 9. Now you need to unroll the liner and find the deep end marker. Remove the label and throw it away if you fail to do this a stain may appear under the liner months after installation.
• 10. If your liner has a pattern on it be careful not to walk on it with hard soled shoes as this may scuff the liner. Use plimsolls or bare feet (recommended). Do no wear trainers.
• 11. Make sure all the pool fittings have new gaskets never use old gaskets.
• 12. Attach small sections of the liner beading into the linerlock fixed to the pool shell below the coping stones. Find the four corners of the pool using the corner labels on the beading as a guide and fit a small section of beading either side of each corner. Then find the mid point on each side and each end and fit a small section of beading at these points. By doing this you will:
  • a) Lift the liner side wall clear of the base to allow you to see if the base of the liner is positioned correctly.
  • b) Have effect of distributing the beading evenly around the pool.
  • c) If the liner has to be repositioned in the linerlock slightly, it makes it easier to adjust
  • When you are happy with the positioning of the base of the liner, push fit all the beading into the linerlock. Overlap liners may be adjusted as the pool fills with water, although take care to ensure that the base of the liner is orientated correctly in the pool shell before it is filled with water.
• 13. Vacuum fit the liner by using an industrial vacuum cleaner hose between the pool shell and the liner, make sure you seal all the points of leakage with masking tape first. Using the Vacuum will pull the liner back towards the pool shell to enable you to ascertain if any wrinkles are likely to be held in the liner should the pool be filled with water. However if during the vacuum the liner has wrinkles that will not disappear the liner may need to be repositioned or it is the wrong size or shape. Immediately contact the supplier if this is the case.
• 14. While filling the pool do not turn the vacuum off until there is at least 3” of water over the base of the pool at its shallowest point. Always cut side wall fittings at the last possible moment, preferably when they are just beneath water level as the pool fills. If you do it any earlier the liner may crease when the pool is full. When fitting the liner to the roman end make sure the base to side wall joint of the liner is not positioned too far away from the shallow end of the pool.

Step by Step How to Fit a Liner.

Posted on 03/04/08, filed under Installation Info | No Comments

This post will explain step by step how to fit a swimming pool liner.

Before you fit the liner make sure that the size. colour, pattern , gauge and all other specifications are correct.

• 1. Double check the pool area for bumps lumps or any sharp objects. The area to which the liner is being fitted should be smooth. If the pool shell is plastered or screeded then soft sand should be used and not sharp sand.
• 2. To eliminate leaks from the pipe work pressure test it before laying the liner.
• 3. Clear the pool shell of any debris or other objects which may pierce the liner. Using a vacuum or sweeping it may be a good idea.
• 4. If you are fitting the liner to an indoor pool ensure that no varnish or paint is on the prepared screed as they can sometimes discolour the liner.
• 5. To kill any micro organisms wash all the pool walls and floor with 100ppm solution of Sodium Hypochlorite. This could be in liquid form or made from chlorine granules. If you do not kill the micro organisms they will multiply and stain the liner.
• 6. Wash off the Sodium Hypochlorite, then the shell should be painted with fungicide solution which will stop the micro organisms from growing.
• 7. To fit a liner the outside temperature should not be lower than 10⁰C (50⁰F). At the other extreme do not fit the liner between the hours of 11am and 3pm on a hot day as this is when the sun is at its highest. Fitting the liner in extreme sunlight will cause it to stretch in some areas but not in areas of shade.
• 8. The liner may have some packing creases but these are nothing to worry about. They will disappear in time, about 2 weeks in cold weather.
• 9. Check the box that the liner is in for any damage. If the box is damaged check the liner isn’t. Leave the liner in the box when you lift it into the pool shell. Use masking tape or felt to protect the liner from sharp areas of the pool shell. ( For small tears a liner repair kit can be used)

This post will be continued tomorrow……. Thank you

Kirsty Edwards (Sales Manager)