To show how easy it is to install your own heat pump here how we do it

Firstly you will need to alter the pool pipe work to plumb in the new heat pump .The one we are installing is a Heatperfector 32kw so the pipe work is 2” to the unit but can be reduced down to 1 ½ “ if required.

The pipe work is cut and a bypass arrangement installed using three 2” ball valves

The pipes are extended through the wall ready for connection to the heat pump

The heat pump is unpacked and stood in position it’s important the all manufactures clearances around the unit are correct to ensure maximum performance from the heat pump and the pipes are then connected to the heat pump

The heat pump is then connected to a suitable sized electrical supply ensuring the correct size cable is used this unit needs a 32amp supply and has been wired up using a 6mm armoured cable from a suitable isolator

The heat pump can then be set to work switch on the pump with the bypass valve closed and the two valves to the heat pump open check for leaks. Switch on the power to the heat pump and set up the controls to the manufactures instructions. Most heat pumps have delay timers so it may not come on instantly.

Most heat pumps in the UK only work to full capacity with an outdoor air temperature of above 16c so be patient with heat up times and always use a cover on the pool to assist the heat pump to do its job clean the heat pump coils at the start of the season using a coil cleaner and keep the area around it clear of plants etc.

Having received the correct amount of filter media, the following procedure should be followed:-

• 1. Ensure the pool water is in good condition and at the right level. Make sure the skimmer and pump baskets are free from debris. Backwash the filter for 3 minutes then rinse for 20 seconds – Repeat procedure to so that the old media is as clean as possible, before you remove it.
• 2. Set EVERY valve to the closed position. Isolate from the mains supply, the circulation pump and all other on line electrical/gas appliances.
• 3. Remove filter drain plug cap, which is just above the filter base level. NOTE: Once the drain plug cap is removed, the water contained in the filter will be released. Ensure that any of the water will not damage surrounding equipment or decor. Use suitable drainage trays or hoses as required.
• 4. For filters fitted with the multiport valve at the side (side mount) remove the top lid, this will speed up the out flowing water from the drain plug.
• 5. Threaded lids can sometimes be difficult to unscrew. We suggest that you use a purpose made ‘Lacron’ lid tool (please email us if you would like to purchase one). Alternatively, it is possible to make your own tool from two 750mm lengths of 50 x 50 timber, each drilled with a 10mm diameter hole, 70mm from the end. Loosely join the two timber pieces using a 10mm nut and bolt to form an unequal cross. This can then be fitted over the filter lid and used to push against the fins to give far greater leverage. Do not hammer the lid, this will cause damage.
• 6. Having removed the lid of your filter, you will need to lift off the air bleed cap and rose distributor then remove distributor pipework. This can be disconnected by unscrewing the stainless steel cross head screw, which is situated inside the filter at 45° on the edge of the top bulkhead. Once the screw is removed the header pipe can be eased out of the bulkhead and carefully slipped off of the black – airbleed tube.
• 7. For filters fitted with a multiport valve at the top, the valve must be removed to gain access to the interior of the filter. Top mount filters have a central collector pipe unlike the side mount type.
• 8. Provided the media is free running a commercial type wet and dry vacuum cleaner can be used to suck out the old media. NOTE: You may need to use water from a hose pipe to help fluidise the media when vacuuming. Alternatively, it may be more appropriate to simply bail out the media using a plastic bowl approximately of 150mm diameter or smaller.
• 9. Whatever method of media removal chosen, particular care should be taken as you excavate around the lower underdrain pipework. This pipework can become brittle during years of service and any damage that may occur could result in sand being passed back to the pool once the filter is re-commissioned. It may help to wash around the underdrain pipework with a garden hose to assist with removing ALL the old media.
• 10. Once the filter is completely empty of old media, it is advisable to fill the filter with water by about one third of the tank depth. This water will break the fall of the fresh media, reducing its impact on the underdrain pipework. Cover the end of the airbleed tube with adhesive tape or similar to prevent sand blocking the pipe bore.
• 11. Make sure that the NEW fresh media is dry and free running. Open the sacks carefully to avoid wastage and to assist in making the flow more controllable. Pour the media in slowly, and continue until half of the required amount is in place. At which point you should push the media around inside the filter making the surface roughly level.
• 12. Pour the remainder of the media in, but keep a careful check on the media height level. On most residential filters, the correct height is about 30 -50mm above the centre of the filter. This level may be higher on commercial filters – refer to filter technical specifications. NEVER FILL THE FILTER COMPLETELY WITH MEDIA!
• 13. Once the correct amount of media is in the filter, again push the surface layer around until roughly level. Then clean the lid area, paying particular attention to the threads which must be completely free of any media or dirt etc.
• 14. Remove the tape from the airbleed tube and clean and refit the distributor pipework, rose and airbleed cap. Thoroughly clean the lid and ‘o’ ring. Check to ensure that all dirt and grit is removed by screwing the lid into the filter. If dirt is still present you will hear a grating sound.Once you are sure that the lid and threads are totally clean you can then apply a liberal amount of Vaseline to the lid threads and ‘o’ ring. Then refit the lid hand tight only!
• 15. Open appropriate valves and reset to BACKWASH. Re-activate the main circulating pump. BACKWASH for at least 3 minutes. You will notice that the backwash water contains a colour stain – this is normal but must be completely clear before filtering can start. Stop the system then rinse for 1 minute. Stop the system and manually re-tighten the lid by another one-third turn. Then do a further backwash and rinse until the out flowing water is completely clean.
• 16. Re-set the valve to filter position, switch the pump on and observe the water flowing back to the pool, which should be noticeably, more vigorous. Once you are satisfied that the filter is running correctly you should re-set all other on line equipment, re-setting or adjusting timers etc.

Kirsty Edwards (Sales Manager)

• 9. Now you need to unroll the liner and find the deep end marker. Remove the label and throw it away if you fail to do this a stain may appear under the liner months after installation.
• 10. If your liner has a pattern on it be careful not to walk on it with hard soled shoes as this may scuff the liner. Use plimsolls or bare feet (recommended). Do no wear trainers.
• 11. Make sure all the pool fittings have new gaskets never use old gaskets.
• 12. Attach small sections of the liner beading into the linerlock fixed to the pool shell below the coping stones. Find the four corners of the pool using the corner labels on the beading as a guide and fit a small section of beading either side of each corner. Then find the mid point on each side and each end and fit a small section of beading at these points. By doing this you will:
  • a) Lift the liner side wall clear of the base to allow you to see if the base of the liner is positioned correctly.
  • b) Have effect of distributing the beading evenly around the pool.
  • c) If the liner has to be repositioned in the linerlock slightly, it makes it easier to adjust
  • When you are happy with the positioning of the base of the liner, push fit all the beading into the linerlock. Overlap liners may be adjusted as the pool fills with water, although take care to ensure that the base of the liner is orientated correctly in the pool shell before it is filled with water.
• 13. Vacuum fit the liner by using an industrial vacuum cleaner hose between the pool shell and the liner, make sure you seal all the points of leakage with masking tape first. Using the Vacuum will pull the liner back towards the pool shell to enable you to ascertain if any wrinkles are likely to be held in the liner should the pool be filled with water. However if during the vacuum the liner has wrinkles that will not disappear the liner may need to be repositioned or it is the wrong size or shape. Immediately contact the supplier if this is the case.
• 14. While filling the pool do not turn the vacuum off until there is at least 3” of water over the base of the pool at its shallowest point. Always cut side wall fittings at the last possible moment, preferably when they are just beneath water level as the pool fills. If you do it any earlier the liner may crease when the pool is full. When fitting the liner to the roman end make sure the base to side wall joint of the liner is not positioned too far away from the shallow end of the pool.

Before you fit the liner make sure that the size. colour, pattern , gauge and all other specifications are correct.

• 1. Double check the pool area for bumps lumps or any sharp objects. The area to which the liner is being fitted should be smooth. If the pool shell is plastered or screeded then soft sand should be used and not sharp sand.
• 2. To eliminate leaks from the pipe work pressure test it before laying the liner.
• 3. Clear the pool shell of any debris or other objects which may pierce the liner. Using a vacuum or sweeping it may be a good idea.
• 4. If you are fitting the liner to an indoor pool ensure that no varnish or paint is on the prepared screed as they can sometimes discolour the liner.
• 5. To kill any micro organisms wash all the pool walls and floor with 100ppm solution of Sodium Hypochlorite. This could be in liquid form or made from chlorine granules. If you do not kill the micro organisms they will multiply and stain the liner.
• 6. Wash off the Sodium Hypochlorite, then the shell should be painted with fungicide solution which will stop the micro organisms from growing.
• 7. To fit a liner the outside temperature should not be lower than 10⁰C (50⁰F). At the other extreme do not fit the liner between the hours of 11am and 3pm on a hot day as this is when the sun is at its highest. Fitting the liner in extreme sunlight will cause it to stretch in some areas but not in areas of shade.
• 8. The liner may have some packing creases but these are nothing to worry about. They will disappear in time, about 2 weeks in cold weather.
• 9. Check the box that the liner is in for any damage. If the box is damaged check the liner isn’t. Leave the liner in the box when you lift it into the pool shell. Use masking tape or felt to protect the liner from sharp areas of the pool shell. ( For small tears a liner repair kit can be used)

This post will be continued tomorrow……. Thank you

Kirsty Edwards (Sales Manager)